Cartier Santos Demoiselle yellow gold and diamonds Ref. WF9001Y7, ca.2015

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Identity

Cartier Santos Demoiselle small model, Ref. WF9001Y7, yellow gold and diamonds, ca. 2015. Quartz movement, Cartier calibre 157. Square 18-carat yellow gold case, 20 × 20 mm, diamond-set bezel and lugs, octagonal crown also set with a diamond. Silver dial, black Roman numerals, blued glaive hands, secret Cartier signature within the X. Sapphire crystal. 18-carat yellow gold Panthère-style link bracelet, concealed signed Cartier double folding clasp.

Horological context

In 1904, Louis Cartier designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont one of the first men's wristwatches, released to the public from 1911: a square case with softened corners, Roman numerals and a railway minute track, sword-shaped hands, a bezel with exposed screws. In 1978, Cartier relaunched it as the Santos de Cartier, with an integrated metal bracelet echoing the case screws — one of the emblematic sport-chic watches of the 1980s. The Santos Galbée followed in 1987, with a more ergonomic case, then the Santos 100 in 2004 for the centenary. The Santos Demoiselle appeared in 2005: it keeps the Santos DNA — softened square case, Roman-numeral dial — but drops the exposed screws for a jewellery execution and a Panthère-style link bracelet. This was no accident: the Panthère, itself born of a softened reading of the Santos, had just been retired from the catalogue in 2004; the Demoiselle took over its role as the jewellery watch. Its name pays tribute to the Demoiselle, Santos-Dumont's aircraft.

Character

Freed of the Santos's exposed screws, the Demoiselle reads first as a fine-jewellery watch. On the wrist, the supple "Panthère" link bracelet wears like a chain, and the diamond setting rings the case without interruption.

Serviced. Very good condition. Supplied with the maker's box and the 24-month Contre-Temps warranty certificate.